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Blogging Kalamazoo: Saturday Morning
Session 398 -- Dress and Textiles II: Clothing and the Church
Investing a Vestment with Value: The Interpretation of the Pallium in the Latin Church (ca. 800-ca. 1200) (Steven A. Schoenigh)
The pallium is a contact relic, laid on the tomb of St. Peter before being bestowed on a bishop by the Pope. It developed as a tool used by the papacy to confer authority on those who accepted a particular relationship to Rome's authority. Woven of white wool, decorated with crosses. It became a symbol of Papal authority delegated to local bishops. The physical form was freighted with all manner of symbolism (separate, of course, from the historic development of the garment) particularly in the notions of "bearing burdens on the shoulders". (The symbolism goes on and on, and the specific takes on this by various medieval writers were summarized in detail.) Despite the wide variety of symbolic interpretations, no official version was promulgated, resulting in the pallium's use as a meditation on the possible meanings.
Taking the Veils: Anglo-Saxon Women Religious and Liminal Symbolism (Janet Gilligan)
A consideration of monasteries as "liminal communities" and rites of passage for entering them. "Taking the veil" represents a three-part process: literal acceptance of the veil (separation), contemplation, then acceptance and integration into the (monastic) community. As background "taking the veil" was originally a symbol of marriage, but then was extended to "marriage to Christ", but there were also elements of encouraging even non-consecrated unmarried women to veil both to "protect" them from men's gaze (particularly in church) and to "protect" men from the danger of their beauty. (I.e., similar arguments used for Islamic veiling.) Originally the "marriage to Christ" symbolism was predominant for nuns. The veil not only symbolized their status as "taken" single women, but provided a visual symbol of membership in a particular community. But later veiling and other dress issues for nuns became a form of control by the (patriarchal) church, to discourage "attractive" dress. Monastic veils became tied up with the symbolism of the Virgin's veil as representing her protection.
Female Saints in Rupestrian Paintings in Apulia and Basilicata: Tradition or Fashion? (Luisa Derosa)
This region of Italy has a long tradition of rich textile vestments and artifacts, such as many of the HRE vestments. (I'm having a hard time following the thread of this paper. We're getting a general survey of art and architecture of the region, some discussion of saints appearing in wall paintings, ok, back on track.) Female saints appearing in wall paintings in this region are portrayed with very rich clothing -- richer than typical for this type of image. A particular style of earring is offered as a typical example, also brooch styles, richly decorated fabric.
Donations from the Body for the Soul: Apparel, Devotion, and Status in Late Medieval Strasbourg (Charlotte A. Stanford)
(Had to shut down for low battery, so this one's from memory.) An extensive inventory of donations made by ordinary people for the support of a chapel in Strasbourg are documented in donation books that provide the donor's name, minimal identifying information, and a brief description of the donation, often clothing. As a side note, roughly half of the donors are women, so this would be a great resource for personal names ... a pity it hasn't been published in transcription yet. Clothing donations were typically of ordinary everyday items, although occasionally specific vestments or clothing for ecclesiastical purposes were given. (Mostly the donations would then be resold to raise money -- sort of an early rummage sale concept.)
Investing a Vestment with Value: The Interpretation of the Pallium in the Latin Church (ca. 800-ca. 1200) (Steven A. Schoenigh)
The pallium is a contact relic, laid on the tomb of St. Peter before being bestowed on a bishop by the Pope. It developed as a tool used by the papacy to confer authority on those who accepted a particular relationship to Rome's authority. Woven of white wool, decorated with crosses. It became a symbol of Papal authority delegated to local bishops. The physical form was freighted with all manner of symbolism (separate, of course, from the historic development of the garment) particularly in the notions of "bearing burdens on the shoulders". (The symbolism goes on and on, and the specific takes on this by various medieval writers were summarized in detail.) Despite the wide variety of symbolic interpretations, no official version was promulgated, resulting in the pallium's use as a meditation on the possible meanings.
Taking the Veils: Anglo-Saxon Women Religious and Liminal Symbolism (Janet Gilligan)
A consideration of monasteries as "liminal communities" and rites of passage for entering them. "Taking the veil" represents a three-part process: literal acceptance of the veil (separation), contemplation, then acceptance and integration into the (monastic) community. As background "taking the veil" was originally a symbol of marriage, but then was extended to "marriage to Christ", but there were also elements of encouraging even non-consecrated unmarried women to veil both to "protect" them from men's gaze (particularly in church) and to "protect" men from the danger of their beauty. (I.e., similar arguments used for Islamic veiling.) Originally the "marriage to Christ" symbolism was predominant for nuns. The veil not only symbolized their status as "taken" single women, but provided a visual symbol of membership in a particular community. But later veiling and other dress issues for nuns became a form of control by the (patriarchal) church, to discourage "attractive" dress. Monastic veils became tied up with the symbolism of the Virgin's veil as representing her protection.
Female Saints in Rupestrian Paintings in Apulia and Basilicata: Tradition or Fashion? (Luisa Derosa)
This region of Italy has a long tradition of rich textile vestments and artifacts, such as many of the HRE vestments. (I'm having a hard time following the thread of this paper. We're getting a general survey of art and architecture of the region, some discussion of saints appearing in wall paintings, ok, back on track.) Female saints appearing in wall paintings in this region are portrayed with very rich clothing -- richer than typical for this type of image. A particular style of earring is offered as a typical example, also brooch styles, richly decorated fabric.
Donations from the Body for the Soul: Apparel, Devotion, and Status in Late Medieval Strasbourg (Charlotte A. Stanford)
(Had to shut down for low battery, so this one's from memory.) An extensive inventory of donations made by ordinary people for the support of a chapel in Strasbourg are documented in donation books that provide the donor's name, minimal identifying information, and a brief description of the donation, often clothing. As a side note, roughly half of the donors are women, so this would be a great resource for personal names ... a pity it hasn't been published in transcription yet. Clothing donations were typically of ordinary everyday items, although occasionally specific vestments or clothing for ecclesiastical purposes were given. (Mostly the donations would then be resold to raise money -- sort of an early rummage sale concept.)