hrj: (Default)
One of the ways in which I tend to diverge from a lot of my friends in the SCA is that for me the big, number one, most important and most fun thing I do in the SCA is try to understand historic cultures by trying to reproduce little bits of them. I'm not saying that other people don't think this is fun and important too, but it seems to come further down the list for most people. I don't come to the SCA for a "dream of chivalry"; I don't come to find "family" (well, except for my brothers, of course); I don't come for the partying; I come to do and make medieval things. Yesterday was the sort of thing I love to do in the SCA. Trying to learn more about the constraints and advantages of medieval cooking methods and equipment; comparing different possible interpretations of a single recipe; sharing and discussing knowledge and techniques in a situation that involves practical application without the looming pressure of a room full of paying diners. And the second most fun thing about the cooking (after the cooking itself) was the near-constant stream of people wandering through to taste the results.

Here are the recipes I did -- all from Sent SovĂ­, no repeats of my previous experiments (although I brought the results of the arugula sauce for people to try). See previous postings for the bibliographic information.

Mushroom Sauce )
Carrots )
Squash )
Broad Beans (Favas) )
Broom Pudding )

Overall Summary

I'm quite fond of the number of vegetable dishes in this book. It's also interesting to see several "patterns" of preparation applied to multiple base ingredients. I'm itching to do a distribution analysis of seasonings to get a big-picture notion of the rules of the cuisine. I keep getting the notion that some of the dishes labelled "sauces" are more in the way of side dishes -- or at least more of a condiment than a sauce, per se. It's also interesting to read some of the side comments on preparation and serving (like the bit about serving the squash with sour grape juice on the side, presumably to be added individually as people are served). All in all, the recipes seem more "talky" than contemporary collections from more northerly areas. Less someone's personal memory aid and more intended as actual instructions to someone unfamiliar with the dishes.

ETA: [livejournal.com profile] sarahbellem was taking pictures of the cooking, so they may show up online at some point.
hrj: (Default)
One of the reasons I've been meaning to start playing with this source (in addition to scouting out recipes for next weekend's 14th c. cooks play-date) is that it has a startlingly high proportion of vegetable-centered dishes (for a medieval cookbook). Today I tried out the stuffed eggplant recipe and accompanied it with the stuffed octopus/squid dish, for reasons that shall become apparent.

Aubergines

If you want to make aubergines, boil them with salt and water. First, however, one cuts them into three or four parts lengthwise. When it has boiled a lot, take them out; choose those that you find are not as well boiled and press them firmly between two wooden plates. And then take those that are more cooked, and onion, parsley, mint, and marjoram, and chop it all together on a plate. Put eggs and grated cheese on a plate; then take raisins and cooked garlic. Grind it all together and mix in good spices. Then stuff each one [of the aubergine slices] with this [mixture]. Take an onion, and put it on the bottom of a casserole dish. The head of the aubergine goes at the bottom and the tail at the top. Take almond milk made with good broth, a litte oil, and a little grease, and pour it over top. And it goes in the oven.


To Stuff Octopus

If you want to stuff octopus or squid, take the octopus and wash it well, boil it, cut off the arms, and take out what is inside. Chop [the arms] all together with parsley, mint, marjoram and other good herbs. You can chop another kind of fish if the tentacles are not enough. Put in the best spices that you can find. Make sure that the octopus is cleaned well. Put in the stuffing, and put in raisins and scalded garlic and fried onion. Then make almond milk with the broth that has boiled the fish, and put it in a bowl or a casserole together with the octopus, in the milk you can put a little verjuice and good spices, the best you might have, and oil. You can cook it in the oven or on an iron trivet with live coals beneath.


The parallels between the two dishes struck me as working well for a dual experiment: both involve a pre-cooked object stuffed with a mixture that is based on onions, garlic, parsley, mint, marjoram (and other good herbs), and raisins -- plus other non-shared ingredients -- baked in a casserole with broth-based almond milk, oil, and (based on the footnotes) verjuice.

Cut because there are photos. )Summary

The squid was a definite winner -- hampered by having a smaller potential audience. The eggplant was tasty but ... needs work.
hrj: (Default)
So at one and the same time, I was pondering what to do with the large bunch of arugula that came in last week's CSA box and contemplating which of several 14th c. cookbooks I wanted to play with at the Cooks' Play Date at Coronet. And thus did I find myself staring at Sent Sovi's recipe for Arugula Sauce. The translation I'm working from (Robin Vogelzang's translation of the Joan Santanach edition) reads:

If you want to make arugula sauce, take the arugula and grate it, and, well ground and then diluted with good vinegar, knead it. Cook it well or scald it nine times with boiling water, and each time grind it finely. If it is too hard, you can put vinegar in the mortar or wherever you are grinding it; when it is well ground, dilute it. You can scald it in the same mortar, and each time that you scald it, pour out the water. Then mix it with vinegar for flavor, and with spices: saffron, pepper, ginger, cloves, and cinnamon, if you have some. Put in fruit syrup or sugar for someone delicate.

It is served with roasted chickens, roasted pork, beef, veal or salted fish.


Since the directions for "scalding" were more detailed than the option for "cook it well", I went with the former. I also made heavy use of a food processor rather than using a mortar since I don't have a large enough mortar for the experiment. So.

Wash one large bunch arugula, pick over, and pinch off the leafy parts from the stems. Add in small handfuls to a food processor with enough vinegar to make manageable and process to a roughly chopped level. This counts for "kneading" it as well. Dump into a strainer and press out the liquid. (The liquid was such a lovely thick green that I reserved it for further experimentation.)

Return the leaves to the processor and pour boiling water over them, process, then strain as before. (This liquid wasn't worth keeping.) Repeat for a total of 9 scalds. (The water gets progressively clearer and clearer as you go.)

Ok, at this point I have a wad of green vegetation that has pretty much been entirely stripped of the peppery taste that arugula is normally chosen for. So I decided to go down two different paths. For half of it, I mixed it with plain vinegar, for the other half, I mixed it with the original drained vinegar that had oodles of arugula juice in it. So...

To each part of squeezed arugula pulp, add one and a half parts vinegar (or vinegar-juice). I ended up with 2T arugula pulp in the plain version and 3T in the vinegar-juice version. The following amounts will be for the former, with adjustments for the latter.

Add:
1 pinch saffron
1/16 tsp pepper
1/16 tsp ginger
1/32 tsp cloves
1/16 tsp cinnamon

At this point, the volumes I was dealing with were such that I could grind the mixture in my kitchen mortar. I skipped the sweetener for the moment.

Results: Both taste pretty much of the vinegar and spices with the arugula being there for "body". The vinegar-juice based sauce does have an identifiable arugula taste, which the other does not. I plan to let them sit in the refrigerator to age a bit and then try them again, this time with some meat. If they keep for two weeks, I'll bring them to the event for others to try.

Guesses: The "cooking" aspect seems to assume a tough or older plant -- especially the bit about "if it is too hard". But on the other hand, it's hard to figure out why you'd make an arugula-based sauce if your process was guaranteed to eliminate all trace of what distinguishes arugula from any other generic plant pulp. The scalding, grinding, and draining, in particular, seem guaranteed to wash out any soluble flavorings. Compare with the parsley-based "Green Sauce" which is otherwise very similar in structure and seasonings, but involves no cooking. If the recipe assumes an older, tougher arugula than the young salad green of today, would that also mean a stronger flavored plant whose taste would stand up to the treatment? How valid would it be to take an approach of "cook it sufficiently to be able to grind it" and do a version where young arugula is treated much more lightly? Is it reasonable to find an interpretation of "grind it with vinegar, knead it, cook it (in the vinegar)" and then continue from there with adding the spices? Is it possible that the peppery arugula flavor was not a desired feature for this recipe and it was basically simply supplying a green base to a vinegar-spice mixture?

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